Extend the wire on my Fine Offset WH1090

[jandrew]

Although I have looked through this forum for an answer I am still confused.
I hope that I haven't missed the one topic which would have sorted me out.

I am about to take delivery of a Fine Offset WH1090 and I will :

• Site the anemometer and wind direction reader on a 4 meter pole down the garden away from the house and from nearby trees;
  Site the rain guage and transmitter much nearer to the ground, near the house. From there the transmitter will have a direct view of the console from about 10 meters through a window to my study where the consol will be.

I hope this set up will give me accurate readings and ensure that the wireless signal will come in strong and clear.
The problem is that the anemometer and transmitter will be about 40 meters apart.
Can I just get a long length of telephone cable with an RJ11 plug on each end and replace the standard cable that will come with the equipment.

Jandrew

[ejay]

40 meters might be pushing the limits a bit. 30 meters is definitely OK in my case (from personal experience).

I have my wind sensors mounted up a 10m pole. The thermo/hyrgro unit is located 30 meters away around the corner of the house, away from direct sunlight. I made a 25m extension phone cable (4 cores) to connect the wind sensors, and have not had any issues. On the transmitter end, I crimped a 6p4c connector. On the wind sensor end, I terminated an RJ12 socket and the plug from the standard wind vane simply plugs into it.

You'll want to ensure any cable joins or socket are well protected from rain and moisture, otherwise they will corrode and you'll lose the wind readings, not to mention the need to replace and/or re-terminate the RJ phone connectors.

Note: you mention RJ11; these usually only have two conductors (6p2c or Six position, Two conductors) and are not suitable. You will need RJ12 (or 6P4C) to accommodate for both the anemometer and vane as each uses two wires.

[Charlie]

Note: you mention RJ11; these usually only have two conductors (6p2c or Six position, Two conductors) and are not suitable. You will need RJ12 (or 6P4C) to accommodate for both the anemometer and vane as each uses two wires.

There are few "standards" more abused than the RJxx specifications. If you ask for RJ11 you might get 2 conductors, or 4, or even 6 on occasion. all versions have the same physical modular connector body with six possible wire positions. Some versions with 4 conductors are called RJ12, some RJ14, some RJ11. Bottom line - you need 4 conductors for this application, so look carefully when purchasing!

[jandrew]

Thanks folks. Both those replies have been very useful.

The WH1090 has arrived (quick work Amazon, well done) and I am busy assembling all the bits.

I will try it all on one 3 metre post near the study window first, and then gradually move it out and separate the bits to nearer where I want them.

When the time comes I will pop into my local computer repair shop and persuade them to make me a cable of the right length with 4 cores into a RJ11/12.

I am getting quite excited and should have some temporary results by the weeekend

Jandrew

[Charlie]

Also have a read of the dozens of posts on this subject to get an idea of the sorts of problems extending the cable can cause, as well as the many attempts to fix them. Gina has likely done the most work on this.

[AllyCat]

Hi,

Yes, extending the Wind cables can play havock with "spikes" on the External Temperature measurements. The reason is that the input to the (shared) Analogue-Digital converter is carried on that cable. The extent of the problem presumably depends on the strength of any local electrical interference, Gina had the major hindrance of a nearby electric fence.

Cheers, Alan.

[jandrew]

OK folks.

I am now finding my way round this forum and am beginning to find other references.

I don't forsee any local electrical interference, but I shall go ahead in stages - perhaps extending slowly over a period of time.

I suppose that if I specify well-shielded Cat 5/6 cable I might avoid problems except at the extreme.

The WH1090 has now been working for over 24 hours and I downloaded "Cumulus" this morning. This is one super piece of software - well worth a donation.

Jandrew

[MickinMoulden]

I'm concerned about the 4m height of the wind gauge. Is that from ground height? The ideal position would be: As high as you can (not above 10 metres) in a position that has the lowest degree of elevation to anything that would abstuct wind.
So being far from tree's is great, but you need to get into the field of air that is free flowing and not effected by turbulance. I went from 5 metres and changed to 7 metres with cleaner air and my wind run increased by 50% on average. So placement will not only effect wind run (the amount of wind that passes by - calculated at every update and tallied to the end of the day, measured in km or miles), but also the gusts, wind speed and then any other calculation that require this info like Apparent temperature and Fire Danger Indexes.
With whatever height you go with, there is also info in the Wiki for Calibration multipliers to use depending on the height you go with, because as you go under 10m, the less wind it picks up, and thus the more calibration required to rectify the descrepancy.

As for the length, go the whole hog straight up! Don't dilly dally. Do what you got to do, if it don't work just go shorter. It's easier than trying to make it longer, particularly if you need to go somewhere for the cable to be made.

If it's a job worth doing (it is), then it's worth doing right.

I know it's just a hobby (like it is to nearly all of us), but it's always nice to know that it's giving credible data. In saying this, make sure your temp sensor isn't getting direct sunlight (add an extra shield or screen) BUT will pick up cool night air (not under a varandah like mine )

[ejay]

If you want to start by mounting the wind sensors low, you should leave enough cable slack to accommodate any future height increases. Simply wind up the excess cable into a neat coil at the bottom of your mounting pole until you need the extra length.

Ideally your wind sensors should be at least several meters higher than other nearby structures or trees, in order to keep clear of turbulence created by such.

[jandrew]

Well I've made a start, extending the cable to the anemometer and direction indicator to 30metres.
I might call it a day there - have had no glitches (yet).

I'm thinking of waterproofing all the connections (I get lots of rain, high winds and that rain/snow gets everywhere). I've found Contralube 770 at Maplins. It sounds to be just the stuff for the job.

Anybody with comments or experience of something similar?

[Charlie]

It sounds to be just the stuff for the job.

Anybody with comments or experience of something similar?

Any dielectric grease will do the job.

I get mine at a local auto parts supply shop (Permatex Dielectric Tune-up Grease). A liberal covering of outdoor connections keeps them shiny and new for years.

[ejay]

You should be careful about applying any type of grease to the connectors. Grease is a magnet for dust, especially when used outdoors or anywhere there is airflow. Having said that, a very thin coating could be beneficial to prevent corrosion on the metallic contacts.

If you have more spare time, it's probably better to provide another means of water protection. You could make a small IP65 rated box or enclosure for the extension cable junctions/connections.

[Charlie]

You should be careful about applying any type of grease to the connectors. Grease is a magnet for dust, especially when used outdoors or anywhere there is airflow. Having said that, a very thin coating could be beneficial to prevent corrosion on the metallic contacts.

If you have more spare time, it's probably better to provide another means of water protection. You could make a small IP65 rated box or enclosure for the extension cable junctions/connections.

I hate to be disagreeable, but professional outdoor installations (satellite dishes, 2-way satellite internet, cell tower antennae, low voltage lighting, etc.,) all use dielectric grease to protect and weatherproof connections. These products are specifically designed for this purpose. I can provide references if necessary...

You can certainly build a custom enclosure with lots of time and money, but frankly it’s overkill for this application. And you need to be very good, as water intrudes in ways that are not immediately obvious, then remains and corrodes in a reasonably well sealed box.

Also, dust does not matter, (especially if the layer of grease is thick) as there are no moving parts, once the connector is mated.

[mermaidbeachweather]

Sounds like you are getting it all together in such a short time, its very pleasing when everything works without glitches.
Can you post up any pics


Regards

Brian

[ScottVan]

See the first pic in this post. I put my extenstion connections inside a weatherproof outlet box and then seald the bottom of the box with foam. Big black gasket keeps the rain and bugs out. Solid for just over a year now.

https://cumulus.hosiene.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6069

I did dilectric grease all my connections as well. Details in that thread about how I wounted mine. Temp/humid now mounted on shady side of house.Building new wooden stevenson screen as this plastic bowl concept is less than robust and is/has cracked a few times.

Scott