Ok I have purchased both these componants Now what what is the better one to fix and test ?
Note with the direct short i've had Zero sensor loss.
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Latest Cumulus MX V4 release 4.4.2 (build 4085) - 12 March 2025
Latest Cumulus MX V3 release 3.28.6 (build 3283) - 21 March 2024
Legacy Cumulus 1 release 1.9.4 (build 1099) - 28 November 2014
(a patch is available for 1.9.4 build 1099 that extends the date range of drop-down menus to 2030)
Download the Software (Cumulus MX / Cumulus 1 and other related items) from the Wiki
If you are posting a new Topic about an error or if you need help PLEASE read this first viewtopic.php?p=164080#p164080
WH-1080 Lost Contact FIX! Need help though to do it :)
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AllyCat
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Re: WH-1080 Lost Contact FIX! Need help though to do it :)
Jim,
The 1N4148 is probably closer to the original component, but either should work fine (assuming the assumptions made so far are correct).
sanramonrover,
A multimeter is not a good way to test diodes (unless it has a dedicated test mode). If the test current (or voltage) is low then it will indicate an unrealistically large resistance. The simplest/best method is probably to use a battery and resistor of a few kohms to pass current through the diode and measure the voltage across it. Schottky or germanium should drop a few hundred mV, silicon about 600mV and LEDs 1.0 - 3.0 volts (depends partly on their colour). In the reverse direction the measured voltage should be the same as that of the battery. But if testing "in circuit", do be careful that you don't damage (or get confusing values from) any other components in the circuit.
Cheers, Alan.
The 1N4148 is probably closer to the original component, but either should work fine (assuming the assumptions made so far are correct).
sanramonrover,
A multimeter is not a good way to test diodes (unless it has a dedicated test mode). If the test current (or voltage) is low then it will indicate an unrealistically large resistance. The simplest/best method is probably to use a battery and resistor of a few kohms to pass current through the diode and measure the voltage across it. Schottky or germanium should drop a few hundred mV, silicon about 600mV and LEDs 1.0 - 3.0 volts (depends partly on their colour). In the reverse direction the measured voltage should be the same as that of the battery. But if testing "in circuit", do be careful that you don't damage (or get confusing values from) any other components in the circuit.
Cheers, Alan.
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sanramonrover
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Re: WH-1080 Lost Contact FIX! Need help though to do it :)
Yea alleycat, I used a multimeter - meaning it has voltage, amperage and a diode test setting.
When I find my stash of diodes I'm going to try jimmy06's trick and see if this dead transmitter will come back to live. wow, what if?
When I find my stash of diodes I'm going to try jimmy06's trick and see if this dead transmitter will come back to live. wow, what if?
- Super-T
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Re: WH-1080 Lost Contact FIX! Need help though to do it :)
If it's a diode that has shorted, perhaps it is across the battery reversed to prevent incorrect battery installation? That way you don't drop 0.6 volt. Should be bigger than a 1n4148 though to prevent it shorting and just flatten the batteries instead. Just a thought. I haven't got a transmitter spare to look at.
Anybody drawn a circuit diagram yet?
Anybody drawn a circuit diagram yet?
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Jimmy06
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Re: WH-1080 Lost Contact FIX! Need help though to do it :)
Itwould appear the temps are way out for some reason anyway i thinks its 29.4 atm
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Jimmy06
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Re: WH-1080 Lost Contact FIX! Need help though to do it :)
Ok guys seems things are going good with it just over ridden atm. I have a question though. Temps are insane and have been insane since i relocated it. Before it was on a pole around 30ft in the air now its screwed to a wooden facia board next to the roof and is getting silly temps like 44c when its clearly not.