Cumulus Support

My WH1081PC anemometer stopped spinning in light winds, and was out of warranty. So I fixed it myself (I hope - time will tell), and the attached document shows how.

Hi Daniel, a very interesting article, especially with the pictures.

However one thing I would point out; WD40 is ideal for releasing the bearings but it does tend to dry out after a while and leave a residue which is not very 'lubricating'. It's really best on bearings to oil them after freeing them with WD40 so that there is an oil residue inside the bearing when the WD40 evaporates.

Mike.

I too found the article very interesting Good to have photos of the insides and nice to actually know just how things work. Seems that with just occasional lubrication of the bearing, this device should last many years.

Thank you for taking the trouble to write this report and post it here

Repairman77 wrote:...WD40 is ideal for releasing the bearings but it does tend to dry out after a while and leave a residue which is not very 'lubricating'. It's really best on bearings to oil them after freeing them with WD40 so that there is an oil residue inside the bearing when the WD40 evaporates.
Mike.

Thanks, Mike, I didn't know that (I'm an electronics engineer, not mechanical). Next time I have to dismantle it, I'll use a drop or two of sewing machine oil.

It is noticable in a couple of the pictures that algae was growing in the 'rim'.

Surely this was the problem not the bearing ?

... and is that some sort of 'wick' in the centre of the ballrace ?

beteljuice wrote:It is noticable in a couple of the pictures that algae was growing in the 'rim'.

Surely this was the problem not the bearing ?

... and is that some sort of 'wick' in the centre of the ballrace ?

The algae is a very thin layer, and wouldn't go anywhere near filling the significant gap between the spinning 'cap' and the body.

It's not a wick in the centre, it's the plastic post the bearing is fitted to, melted down over the inner rim to retain the bearing on the post (otherwise it might pull off when you pull the cups assembly off the bearing). [This is how it came - I didn't do that.]

WB40 actually leaves a kerosene like stuff behind, supposed to evaporate, and mineral oil.

DanielF wrote:

Repairman77 wrote:...WD40 is ideal for releasing the bearings but it does tend to dry out after a while and leave a residue which is not very 'lubricating'. It's really best on bearings to oil them after freeing them with WD40 so that there is an oil residue inside the bearing when the WD40 evaporates.
Mike.

Thanks, Mike, I didn't know that (I'm an electronics engineer, not mechanical). Next time I have to dismantle it, I'll use a drop or two of sewing machine oil.

Daniel; I'm a retired Electronics Engineer too, but I used to do a lot of repairs on mechanical systems as well, and fell foul of the WD40 stuff. It tends to leave a residue that causes friction rather than lubricate and after a while can even cause bearings to get stiff or jam. I learnt the hard way. However it's very good at initially getting seized things un-seized. I always put a drop of 3in1 oil in after the WD40 has drained out.

Mike.

Repairman77 wrote:... and fell foul of the WD40 stuff. It tends to leave a residue that causes friction rather than lubricate and after a while can even cause bearings to get stiff or jam. I learnt the hard way. However it's very good at initially getting seized things un-seized. I always put a drop of 3in1 oil in after the WD40 has drained out.
Mike.

Mike,

Experience counts for a lot, in my opinion. Mind, you confounding factors can sometimes lead us to false conclusions. I don't have that experience with WD-40 to make a judgement, but a friend directed me to this Wikipedia entry, which seems to agree with JabbaTHutt's comment:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
Of course I understand the nature of Wikipedia, which means it can't necessarily be taken as 'gospel'.

On the other hand, a locksmith once told me not to use WD-40 on door locks, as it tends to 'gum them up' in the long run. He recommends a 'dry' lubricant for locks. But IMHO the 'gumming up' of things lubricated with WD-40 (and other sprays that leave a residue) is possibly due to the oily film collecting dust or other contaminants, and forming a 'goo'.

Incidentally, beteljuice, that same friend reminded me of the major dust storm we had in NSW last year, when red dust covered the entire state and got into everything. That red stuff in some of my photos is remnants of that dust, not algae.

WD40 should not be used on plastics and rubbers, and is really only of use for freeing rusted bolts and padlocks. The oil it carries is only enough to help unscrew a bolt, and doesn't generally remain lubricating for long. Worse still the carrier liquid washes out any grease or oil that was present originally.

Far better with a PTFE lubricating spray which tend to be plastic and rubber friendly.

I think the general consensus of opinion is that it is excellent for freeing seized joints in the first place but is not intended for long time lubrication. I've fell foul of it in the past, especially on record deck spindles; it certainly frees the seized ones but does not lubricate them for long time use like 3in1 oil.

A simple test... spray a little on your thumb and forefinger.Once the residue has evaporated rub them together; you'll feel friction. Clean your hands and do the same thing with oil; that will feel slippery.
In extreme cases I have washed away the WD40 residue with IPA and then applied the oil.

Mike.

Repairman77 wrote:

DanielF wrote:

Repairman77 wrote:...WD40 is ideal for releasing the bearings but it does tend to dry out after a while and leave a residue which is not very 'lubricating'. It's really best on bearings to oil them after freeing them with WD40 so that there is an oil residue inside the bearing when the WD40 evaporates.
Mike.

Thanks, Mike, I didn't know that (I'm an electronics engineer, not mechanical). Next time I have to dismantle it, I'll use a drop or two of sewing machine oil.

Daniel; I'm a retired Electronics Engineer too, but I used to do a lot of repairs on mechanical systems as well, and fell foul of the WD40 stuff. It tends to leave a residue that causes friction rather than lubricate and after a while can even cause bearings to get stiff or jam. I learnt the hard way. However it's very good at initially getting seized things un-seized. I always put a drop of 3in1 oil in after the WD40 has drained out.

Mike.

3 in 1 DEFINITELY evaporates to gum/varnish. A mate has firearms that were regularly oiled after use with 3 in 1. When you dismantle them, you find a sort of varnish deposit where the 3 in 1 built up along wood/metal margins. It is notorious for this, so I would recommend a drop of light weight engine oil on bearings. This is gum free, and all of us will have the odd empty container with dregs which will supply a good number of drops for such applications.

I had some silicon based oil in a red can at one time, I used the last of I think before we moved here a few months ago. It was advertised big time on tv at the time I bought it and I used it on all kinds of things and it never let me down, floppy drive rails and everthing, even put it in my car door locks and never had to clean or use graphite in them again. Never did get another can because I could never find it anywhere.

I wonder what using synthetic engine oil would be like?

Getting back to the WD40 its good as everyone has said for free rusted parts, its good for removing sticky glue and I have used it to wash my hands, also used it to start small engines but the best one is, ya I know not many people have this problem anymore but mom had a 71 chevy with a 307 in it and of course it had a distributor. Well when it rained for a few days and the humidity got high the car would start and usually run fine but every so often it would just up and die and refuse to start and this usually happened while she was going down the street, she would get it over to the side and call home, I would show up with the CAN and pop the cap and give it a spray and it was good again for weeks even if it rained again, I ended up putting a can in the trunk so that if dad of I wasn't able to get there at least she could tell some guy what to do and even supply him with the CAN.

I had trouble tracking down silicone spray too. Tried everywhere. I've had an annoying squeak coming out of the rubber bushes on the inner end of the front wishbones on my car for a while. Can't use WD40 on rubber (as far as I know - because of the mineral oil content). Anyway, I was in B&Q home store the other day, and there were the silicone lube spray cans on the shelf for about £2.50. Bought one, drove the car up on some ramps and gave four quick squirts to the rubber bushes and - hey presto.... Lovely silky silence from the car now. Hope it lasts, but even if it doesn't it is so easy to do the job that I won't be much put out.