Cumulus Support

EvilV wrote: Can't use WD40 on rubber (as far as I know - because of the mineral oil content).

I must admit frequently being confused over some of the attributes of WD40 - I am unsure about its long-term lubricating properties for bearings or locks. However, looking at their Web Site it does confirm that it can be used on virtually any material, including rubber - quote: "Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40."
see http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#a98
But the FAQs do state: "LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts"

atb wrote:

EvilV wrote: Can't use WD40 on rubber (as far as I know - because of the mineral oil content).

I must admit frequently being confused over some of the attributes of WD40 - I am unsure about its long-term lubricating properties for bearings or locks. However, looking at their Web Site it does confirm that it can be used on virtually any material, including rubber - quote: "Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40."
see http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#a98
But the FAQs do state: "LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts"

Wow - that's a new one on me. Thanks. I thought it had parafins in it as solvents, and it does have mineral oil in it, so I am somewhat bewildered about how it is rubber safe.

The supposedly 'secret' ingredients are publicly listed here in the safety leaflet.

http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf

By the by, I am having those rubber bushes replaced tomorrow. The car passed its annual safety test, but the mechanic said they were on the way and would probably fail before the next annual test.

Marketing don't really care I guess.

This site has some info on what rubber seals it sells are resistant to what http://www.blucherdrains.com/Resources/ ... Properties

So maybe the seal will be OK, maybe not unless you know what exactly is in the WD40 and probably more difficult to ascertain what your seal or plastic is made from.

My own experience on motorbikes is that WD40 has a tendency to swell rubber seals, and can give plastics a white glaze, hence I find it best to avoid the stuff altogether.

I've never been a big fan of WD-40. There are better products for freeing seized nuts, better products for displacing moisture, and better products for lubricating, so I'm not sure where that leaves WD-40. Just my two-penn'orth

Actually, I was once told that spraying WD-40 on fishing bait attracts fish, but that seems like a really stupid thing to do, even if it works!

steve wrote:I've never been a big fan of WD-40. There are better products for freeing seized nuts, better products for displacing moisture, and better products for lubricating, so I'm not sure where that leaves WD-40. Just my two-penn'orth

Actually, I was once told that spraying WD-40 on fishing bait attracts fish, but that seems like a really stupid thing to do, even if it works!

LOL

I'm just imagining someone putting oil into a fishery pond... I think anyone doing so might end up as fish food if his fellow anglers spotted what he was up to.

I don't think I know enough to really say whether wd40 is safe on rubber when the web site says it is. I have always thought it WASN'T safe, and I note RCE's remark about it swelling rubber. That's what I believed. I understand that when it swells, it later dries out and becomes brittle, which leads to total collapse in rubbers used for suspension bushes.

Thank you very much for the article repairing the anemometer Daniel finally I've my wind back just wating for some more wind now.

Hi Guys,
I.d probably replace the bearing, I used to use minature bearings alot in different things. In you area near the sea its probably pitted. Look for a number on the bearing somewhere and see if you can get a shielded replacement. Just carefully cut off the plastic holding it and remelt some when you replace it. Regards VB

Thanks Daniel

The trick cured my problem. The anemometer on my station (Easyweather - Maplin N96FY) had gone "notchy" - it would turn but suddenly stopped dead. Easing the top off with my favourite penknife exposed the bearing and a few drops of Castrol "Everyman" light oil has done the business. While I was performing the operation I looked for a number on the bearing but couldn't find one so I assume that it is on the bottom surface on mine - I didn't want to remove the bearing, just in case!

John
Llanblethian, South Wales

Just a follow-up to my anemometer repair...

A few months back my wind direction vane became stuck. Unlike the anemometer, which just had a 'sticky' spot, but would still turn in a moderate wind, the direction vane was stuck fast – couldn't even move it by hand! It was rusted solid (remember I live right on the ocean!).

Getting it apart is the same process as for the anemometer, and its construction is identical for the top half. I prised the bearing up off the post, and found no numbers on it (it's pretty small - where would they fit a number? ), so I measured it with vernier calipers.

I found a stainless steel sealed bearing with the same dimensions, bought online and fitted it, and now everything's working well again. The supplier listed below is in Australia, so postage would probably kill this source for those of you overseas, but it may be of use to other Australians experiencing this problem, and others might find the same part number overseas somewhere. I'm assuming (but haven't measured) that the anemometer bearing would be identical.

Supplier: http://www.smallparts.com.au (sales@bearingshop.com.au)
Bearing part number: SMR105A-ZZMC3
ID: 5.000 mm
OD: 10.000 mm
Width: 4.000 mm

They were $5.36 each incl. GST (I bought 4), with $9.35 total postage (within Australia), though the current price seems to have risen slightly since then.

I'm glad others have found my article useful, and hope this additional info is also of use to somebody.

Yes, they are a standard size and readily available. I bought some when making up my own homebuilt anemometer. No sea spray problems here though

I had rusty bearings on my sons bike. Cleaned them up with a metal brush wheel attachment on my drill. Come up like new and spun beatifully.

MickinMoulden wrote:I had rusty bearings on my sons bike. Cleaned them up with a metal brush wheel attachment on my drill. Come up like new and spun beatifully.

I don't think even Dremmel do a wire brush small enough for the anemometer bearings

I've updated the PDF describing this repair, for those wanting some further details on bearing types.

Hi

Made some repairs for anemometer recently and decided that information could be usefull for others. My sensors has fell down with 10m pole after heavy rain when soil has softened around the sticks wich had holding wires attached. one of the cups of anemometer was broken. I've been trying to glue it but somebody from family threw it into trash without my knowledge...


I have used half of ping pong ball and chupachups candy stick to make new one to glue it more stable have used piece of toothpick. after fixing it I have noticed disbalance of cups. that was causing poor sensitivity for light wind, anemometer cups were swinging instead of slow rotation. to make it balanced I have glued small nut inside of new cup. and addes some extra glue drops for final adjustment. but after that I noticed that original cups are not balanced as well. I have glued small spacer into "lighter" cup. again I had to put few extra glue drops. now sensor is well balanced and sensitive even for very light winds.

Haven't checked balance of original cups after purchase, but now I'm more than sure that balance must to be checked if you want sensor to work well.

here are some photos

Kimis,

That's an innovative repair – I don't think I would have thought of that. Well done!

From your photos I get the impression that the half ping-pong ball is a slightly larger diameter than the original cups, which will probably affect the anemometer's accuracy.

But hopefully not by much, and it's certainly better than no anemometer at all!

I see you're quite close to the coast - what sort of wind speeds do you get in Klaipeda? I'm also on the coast, and have measured gusts of 140kph in Gerroa, on more than one occasion!