"High Quality" is a very common Chinese/ebay term, but yes I think a USB3 cable always will be screened. But I believe that USB3 has additional contacts and cores in the plug/cable, so I don't have any experience if that might help (or hinder) the operation of FO's already "non-standard" interface. Particularly as we have no real explanation why using different software on the PC appears to make a difference.
I wasn't aware of any "1081"s having a Solar Pod; normally the Solar Data model numbers begin with a "3" and maybe the Solar Charging (with no Data) models with a "2" (but there appear to be exceptions). However the "normal" data transmissions are (usually) compatible; the extra Solar data is sent in a separate transmission (when the red LED on the Pod flashes, not that on the transmittter). You should notice that the dashes for UV/Lux on the console disappear (i.e. are replaced by data digits) at different times to the other data.pacificblue03 wrote:I have the WS1081 Solar panel transmitter model does that actually charge the battery or not?
A possible way to identify "Solar" transmitters is to look closely into the "Rain" socket. If it has 6 little "gold wires" then it's (probably) a solar version, if only 4 wires then it's probably a "108x". AFAIK any station supplied with a Solar Pod (and transmitter) should attempt to charge the batteries. But IMHO the "issue" is that the (supplied/recommended) "Rechargeable Alkaline" cells are fundamentally a "rubbish" technology. All Alkaline cells can be "recharged" to a limited extent and it may be better to use good quality (branded) non-rechargeable (which are less likely to leak chemicals) than the cheap "rechargeables" supplied by FO. There are also various "genuine" rechargeable technologies (such as NiMH, NiZn, LiFePO4) which can be used, but all have their own particular Pros and Cons.
Cheers, Alan.
PS: Reading through the thread again, does your station actually send Lux/UV data? It's the "308x" models which appear(ed) to have the (serious) problem with USB cable radiation (but it might occur with any).
If there is no solar data, then personally I would just throw away the Pod (sealing the top of the sun-screen of course) fit good quality standard Alkaline batteries, or Lithium non-rechargeables for long life or ultra-low temperatures (not relevant to Australia), and plug the Rain cable directly into the Rain socket [EDIT: i.e. on the sensor-Transmitter not the Pod]. But that's not likely to affect any radio transmission issues.
