Lost Sensor Contact

[gingerneil]

Am I right in thinking that if cumulus reports 'lost sensor contact', this is being read from the 1080 logger and so I can be sure that the sensor link to the server is OK (ie the USB hasn't decided to sleep) and it is the link between the logger and the outside sensors that is down ?

[quinny]

Invariably whenever I get that error message it's because the station isn't talking to the outside sensor. Usual suspects for me were either failing batteries (in either the station or the outside sensor) or, for some reason, when a load of spiders decided to live inside the sensor housing and covered it in their bloody webs!

[gingerneil]

I've changed the transmitter batteries in the temp sensor housing, and moved the receiver closer and away from any obvious interference..... Still nothing.

[steve]

The 'sensor contact lost' indication is a 'flag' in the data read from the console, and only refers to the link between the outside transmitter and the console.

[gingerneil]

I've just taken a closer look, and the light on the transmitter is staying red for a good while (minutes) after I take the batteries out. If I take the batteries out of the receiver and then replace them, the radio icon lights up but then goes off and I get no data. I can then seeing it coming on again, as if receiving, but no data appears.
Do I need to repair the sender and receiver, or does it look like the sender has died? It's about 5 Years old.

[AllyCat]

Hi,

the light on the transmitter is staying red for a good while (minutes) after I take the batteries out.

That's a clever trick, an illuminated LED without a power source (battery).

If the LED on the transmitter stays on for a "long" time (perhaps >10 seconds) then the transmitter (or just possibly the battery) is probably faulty. 5 years is quite good for a Fine Offset.

The icon on the Console shows when it expects to receive a signal, i.e. an integer multiple of exactly 48 seconds, from when it "synchronised" itself to a transmitter signal (immediately after the Console batteries are installed). The "lost sensor contact" (and "--"s on the Console LCD) occurs if no signal is detected after (about) eight consecutive "reception windows".

Have you used the correct installation procedure, i.e. remove a Console battery and the USB cable, then reinsert the battery (checking that the transmitter LED then flashes within a minute afterwards)?

Cheers, Alan.

[gingerneil]

Thanks for the detailed reply. Looks like I've managed to fix it. Broke open the transmitter, gave it a bit of a rub down, and it then synced up OK. It looked fine inside, but I must have wiggled something in the right way! Let's see if it lasts....

[gingerneil]

..... and it's dead again. If to maplin for a new transmitter....

[AllyCat]

Hi,

If the original is a "Maplin" (Fine Offset 1081) and made 5 years ago, then Maplin's replacement transmitter probably won't work with the original Console, even if the 434 MHz frequency is the same. FO changed the transmission protocol about two years ago (there are several threads on this forum).

So make sure that any replacement that you purchase can be returned, or hope that Maplin reduce the complete stations to £49.99 again, brand new, or even less for "B grade" (returned/refurbished).

Cheers, Alan.

[gingerneil]

Of course - thanks for the reminder. I'll keep an eye out for a refurb.

[gingerneil]

Had another go at fixing the transmitter again last night. Took the cover off, and had a really close look around the board. A small part of the top of the black IC chip looks to have corroded away, and I can just about make out circuitry where there should be a black cover!
I placed some electicians tape over this, in a couple of directions, pressing down to make a seal as best as I could. Put it back outside and all was working for a couple of hours - but then I started getting some odd temp reading (-10 to 24C in the space of 3 mins!). It ran for longer than it had previously, but I've not lost contact again.
Is there a 'proper' way to seal up the IC again, or is it likely had it ?

[AllyCat]

Hi,

I believe that the encapsulation may be Epoxy Resin, so something like "Araldite" could give a more permanent repair. But there will be no "going back" if it doesn't work. However, almost any "sealant" or glue is likely to work better than adhesive tape over the longer term.

"Odd" (external) temperature readings (somtimes called "spikes") can be due to issues (leakage current) in the wind cable or its plugs and connections, at least of the "older" FO stations. For these models the thermistor has been "found", see the "... insides of ..." sticky thread at the top of the Fine Offset section of the forum.

Cheers, Alan.

[gingerneil]

Hi,

I believe that the encapsulation may be Epoxy Resin, so something like "Araldite" could give a more permanent repair. But there will be no "going back" if it doesn't work. However, almost any "sealant" or glue is likely to work better than adhesive tape over the longer term.

Thanks - I'll see what I can do. If it broken anyway, its worth a go! I wasnt sure if a glue/resin would corrode the exposed internals. I'm sure I've got some 2-part Araldite somewhere

"Odd" (external) temperature readings (somtimes called "spikes") can be due to issues (leakage current) in the wind cable or its plugs and connections, at least of the "older" FO stations. For these models the thermistor has been "found", see the "... insides of ..." sticky thread at the top of the Fine Offset section of the forum.
Cheers, Alan.

Thanks for the tip - I dont normally get spikes, but the cable is old and probably not in the best condition. I'll unplug it and see if the sensor lasts any longer before dying.