Solar and UV sensors going off line - fix?

[GraemeT]

Hi Colin,

I'm just wondering how old FO's "old" is - very conveniently, FO don't seem to have printed any version/revision information on the board, so users can't easily compare boards.

I have a 3081 bought Feb. 2011 and it's solar internals match your photos of 2 days ago, so it's interesting they've suddenly come up with a mod they were implementing a year ago.

My problem is with the transmitter - it's signal strength is so low the base unit can't receive over more than about a metre, but the solar side of things has always worked ok..

FO might do well to make the remote sensor units a bit more water resistant.

[41south]

Ah hah, another piece to the puzzle I think - thanks Graeme.

So, if your solar/uv sensor is the same as my "new" "v2" unit (including the wire?) then in fact all FO have done is sent me the later version, probably knowing that the problem was fixed in this version.
What they are trying to do now is go back and devise a fix for the goodness knows how many "v1" units that are still being sold. I was lead to believe (by FO) that the 3081 was a relatively recent product, but I guess recent is relative

Yes I'm wondering how long my tx unit will last outside - but that's another story

[dpmiller]

Hi again, I have had a week of no lockups of the solar module since I covered the UV sensor which is great because when the solar panel locked up in the past I did start to get transmisson problems which became gradually worse. The range and sensitivity to receiver position became gradually worse to the point where the unit was eventually unusable.

At that time I decided to see if I could isolate the problem so I disconnected the solar module and the transmissions still failed. I then replaced the rechargable batteries in the transmitter module with normal 1.5v akaline batteries (with the solar module still disconnected) and it worked fine with great range.

This behaviour leads me to conclude that when the solar module locks up it enters a mode where it is drawing more current than normal (maybe not "sleeping") and the solar cell cannot maintain sufficient charge in the batteries so the transmissions start to fail as the voltage drops. The little red LED below the solar cell is also on when the solar module locks up which supports this theory. Perhaps this also explains the behaviour others are seeing if they swap batteries.

The solution would appear to be to ensure that the UV sensor doesn't lock up the solar module CPU by high UV readings. Hopefully Fine Offset are working on this.

I'll add my weight to this. My experience is that a failed/locked up solar sensor decreases TX battery life (GP Alkaline) to around 6-8 weeks. I've isolated the solar unit at the last battery change, so I'll be able to tell in another few weeks- less if the temperatures drop for a while- if life has improved.

David

[GraemeT]

Yes I'm wondering how long my tx unit will last outside - but that's another story

Mine lasted about 2 weeks - till we had a decent (about 6mm) shower of rain. The transmitter stopped sending, and after I dried it out, just didn't come back.

These things really do need to be in a proper stevensons screen to be useful.

...we live and learn....

[aussiewmr]

Hi All,

Received my replacement Solar units from Fine Offset yesterday. My faulty units are on their way back to FO for analysis.

I opened one up and it was not the "newer" one Colin reported (one with the long wire link) though it was modified with a small link under the Solar Panel which bypasses a low sunlight function (as informed by FO). It also has the Crystal soldered to ground.

Anyway it was promptly placed into service outside last night and I am happy to report it worked all day which is a first for me (at least for a factory standard one - that is one without my light sensor attenuation mod).

That said I wont be convinced for some time yet, when I see a minimum of 3 days continuous operation I might break out the beer.

Also - I mentioned the suspect supply voltage issue raised by John (Taylon) to my contact at FO and he has acknowledged it may be an issue. He did say he has some tests running under "Strong Light" and those batteries are around 3.2 Volts and are all fine. None the less he is going to investigate that further.

Cheers
Phil

EDIT: Day 4 and all is still good

[Stephenwx82]

mine is functioning still but not reliably on average it needs a reset 2 - 3 times a day, emailed fine offset to start the process to obtain a new unit as you guys have done, its a pain in the backside if I may say so!

Stephen

[Feek]

I lowered mine today, extended the cable for the rainfall sensor and relocated it. I also replaced the supplied rechargeable alkaline batteries with a pair of Eneloops and now my UV and solar figures have returned. Time will tell.

[aussiewmr]

Gidday Stephen, Feek,

I am more and more convinced that this is a supply voltage issue but I have no idea why my "resistor" mod works because that mod only tricks the solar unit processor into see less light than there actually is.

However when I analyse the solar graphs the unit always fails following a short period of bright light conditions and that lines up with the battery voltage getting too high theory (or too low as well) that Taylon suggested earlier in this thread.

I have a capability of throwing together a voltage data logger (not a 5 minute job though) which I was considering doing to log the actual battery voltage. However my sensor replacement from FO are working so its pointless at the moment. I have another which I will swap out in about a week and if that fails then I will log the voltage.

FO are aware of this and they will be testing for voltage issues when they receive my crook solar units.

BTW day 5 and all still good. After reading Stephens post I think I should extend the test from a week to a month. Your unit when in between Christmas and New Year did it Stephen?

Phil

[aussiewmr]

Just thinking about this a bit more.

If anyone that has a failing unit has the capability, it may be worth while making a power supply unit from a voltage reg and a 6 volt mains PSU and make it adjustable over the range of 2.5 to 3.5 volts. You could then adjust to exactly 3.0 V and put in place of the batteries. You would probably need to disconnect the solar panel in the unit.

That would help prove / disprove the supply theory.

Please do this at your own risk, I wont be responsible for damaged units(I had to say that...).

All that said, one of may early tests around 28 Dec was disconnecting the Solar Panel and it still failed. However I have no idea of the voltage when it failed other than when I tested the batteries after solar panel disconnection and they were around 3.2 V.

Phil

[mspec]

Hi guys new to this forum but I am having this terrible problem. Is somebody able to PM me the contact details on who to email at FO as I am just getting the run around by the ebay seller.

Thanks very much.

Jason.

[Feek]

Two days in and I'm (touches wood) still going strong on a pair of Eneloops.

[mspec]

Since I have tried nothing else I thought I would try some different batteries , I put in a set of new energizer's which of course straight from the packet would not have been fully charged. This resulted in receiving the low tx symbol on the receiver unit but I still was receiving data. It only lasted 2 hours though before the dreaded -- came up though.
I do not want to start pulling things apart and soldering things mainly because I paid xx amount of dollars for a working unit and I do not see it my responsibility to fix things. I fired off an email to the sales email address on FO's site but so far no reply here's hoping I get something. If anybody has a better email address to send it off to it would be most appreciated.

[aussiewmr]

Hi Jason,

PM Sent - I hope they can help.

Cheers

Phil

[Feek]

Mine's been good for a week now on Eneloops.

[aussiewmr]

12 Days now with the FO replacement.

I hope they find something with my two returned units - though its Chinese New Year now.

Phil